One solution was to replace the laminate, but that would be a several hundred dollar option and the new owner might want to do something different so I scoured the internet and found several sites were people had painted their laminate. I combined the ideas from several and decided to tackle it myself using spray paint. I like the texture you can get from many of the new spray paints that are just not possible with a roll on paint.
This is what I did:
Give the countertops a good scrubbing to make sure they are clean. Let it dry thoroughly.
Lightly sand with a fine grit sandpaper. You just want to take off the gloss and give the paint something to stick to.
I choose American Accent Stone, because I liked the texture and color variation it provides. It does need a base color under it though.
I choose the Minwax because it was the only Polyurethane I could find in a spray can.
Put a couple of light coats of the Fusion on the surface and let it dry an hour or so. Make sure you open windows and doors for ventilation since you will be using spray paint in the house. This is very important. If you cannot get good ventilation, I would not suggest using spray paint in the house.
Also, if you have gas appliances-stove, water heater, etc., any where near where you want to spray paint-DON'T DO IT unless you have turned off the gas source. (Contact a professional if you are unsure how to do this.) THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!! If you are unable to turn off the gas source please do not use this method.
Then apply the stone texture. I did several light coats with very little drying time between coats until I got the look I wanted. I let this dry for four hours.
Next, gently scrapped the surface with a plastic putty knife just to knock down high spots. I vacuumed the counter top to remove any loose debris.
Follow up with several coats of semi-gloss polyurethane. Let it dry to the touch between coats. I wanted to be careful to allow enough time for the countertop to cure, so I put protective paper on them, the next morning after the polyurethane was dry to the touch and kept them there for two weeks.
UPDATE: The countertops seemed to discolor with any extensive moisture. They would dry back to what the picture shows, but I was concerned about the durability. I love the texture that the spray paint offers, I just didn’t care for the spray on poly. I added 2 coats of brush on polyurethane in a satin finish since I originally did this project and they are holding up extremely well. If I did this again, I would skip the spray on polyurethane altogether and go with the brush on poly instead. They seem to be impervious to moisture now. I am extremely happy with them and would highly recommend doing it.
WARNING
Spray paint near gas appliances could be very bad news and extremely dangerous. Only use spray paint if there is no gas source (stoves, water heaters, furnaces, etc.) any where in the vicinity or if you are completely certain that you have turned off the gas. And please only use spray paint indoors if you are able to open windows and doors and get a lot of ventilation.
Oh my, this is BRILLIANT! I am super impressed. I am going to feature this post on my blog tomorrow! BEAUTIFUL job.
ReplyDeleteI am really considering trying this! Your counters look amazing! My one question is what do they feel like? Are they rough? How do they clean? Ok, so that's two questions. :)
ReplyDeleteAwesome! I just can't believe you didn't pass out from the fumes!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the feature Alina.
ReplyDeleteThanks notbecky, The countertops do have a bit of a texture to them, but I feel it adds to the interest. Because they have several coats of polyurethane on them, they damp wipe beautifully. If you feel that some of the paint isn't adhering like it should be, add more polyurethane. I went back and brushed on a couple more coats a few weeks later.
ReplyDeleteThanks Abby, the fumes were strong, but I made sure to do this on a day that wasn't too hot and I opened the windows. As soon as I was done spraying between coats, I added a box fan to push the fumes out the windows. Make sure to shut the fan off as you are doing the actual spraying or you end up with more overspray than desired.
ReplyDeleteConsidering doing this. How have they held up? Will the paint chip over time?
ReplyDeleteI did brush on a couple more coats of polyurethane because I wasn't happy with the durability of the spray poly. I am very happy with them now. I would definitely do it again but skip the spray poly and just brush it on. They seem to be holding up beautifully. I wouldn't scrub them with an abrasive cleaner, but normal soap and water is fine.
ReplyDeleteI have ugly faux wood laminate, do you think your technique would work on this as well?
ReplyDeleteHi Stephanie, I don't know why this wouldn't work as long as it is laminate. I don't think it matters whether it is solid or patterned laminate.
ReplyDeleteThey turned out great! Would you be able to estimate how much of each product you used based on the size of your space?
ReplyDeleteMy space was rather small since it was a laundry room. I think total I may have had 20-25 square feet of area and I used about a can and a half of each of the spray on products. One quart of the brush on polyurethane should be more than plenty.
DeleteThank you soo much. My countertops were this horrible eighties royal blue. I followed your instructions to the T. The only thing I did differently was instead of using the spray on Krylon, I used Kiltz paint to prime because the counters were such a dark color. I have a alot of cabinets and last year we priced to change them at a large store. It was over six hundred dollars. With the DIY method it cost me $56.00 total. So thankful I saw your pin on pinterest! I too used the brush on poly and so far so good. No water spots at all! So easy I did this all by myself without any help from the hubs. Go me!
ReplyDelete*ooops instead of I have alot of cabinets-i meant countertops!
ReplyDeleteI am so glad to hear of your success with the counter tops.
ReplyDeleteI have covered formica and ceramic tile. I used an oil based solvent primer. Then used a black water based base coat. Then used acrylic paint (tube)by mixing with water based poly and a sea sponge creating a granite look. Finished with at least 3 or 4 coats of poly. Did this at leasst 9 years ago and still looks great. Had the formica in kitchen and the ceramic tile on bathroom countertops.
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DeleteI'm glad to hear they have held up so well. What color acrylic paint did you use? Is this the artist type paint found in craft stores?
DeleteI painted mine years ago and discovered that the water-based poly does the same thing- over time (10 years) it cracked where the counters repeatedly got wet and dried again. I had always planned to go over them with the an oil based poly but ended up totally remodeling the kitchen. It was a great solution to a problem a lot of people have. It gave me 10 more years to save up for my dream kitchen!
ReplyDeletei so need to try this!
ReplyDeleteTried this on our rental apt. Turned out beautiful. Hdve put about 3 coats of Minwax Polyurethane brush on. I am a bit concerned how waterproof it will be. Currently when it gets wet it shows kinda white until it dries. I'm wondering if thag improves over time
ReplyDeleteI think I may have to put a final coat if oil based poly.
ReplyDeleteWould appreciate any feedback. Thank you. Beautiful job without much work.
In all honesty, I'm not sure how they have held up. I did this at our old house in preparing to move. I only lived with the them for two months. Wish I could be more help.
ReplyDeleteI left a puddle if water in spots for 1/2 hr then wiped off. They looked fine. Think it just may take time to cure. I am sooo impressed with them The Krylon base coat was the worst - can kept leaking & dripping everywhere. Thought it was defective so I bought a 2 nd one - same thing. I swear it took me longer ti clear up the drips than the counters! LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!! THANK YOU! Also thank you for the update - was very helpful
ReplyDeleteHad someone tell me to use XIM as a primer and yacht varnish as the top coat. Haven't tried it yet, but your countertops ROCK!! Now...I might just go with your creation!!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the additional information. One of my future projects is to paint a vinyl type floor that was installed on our exterior deck. I was wondering about an exterior grade varnish for the top coat. I'm glad to know that they make yacht varnish.
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ReplyDeleteI am currently working on my counter tops, doing exactly what you have done. So far so good! I am so excited! Thanks for all your helpful tips.
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ReplyDeleteSo the fusion color will be the main color that you want, and then the stone spray has no color to it?
ReplyDeleteThat is partially correct. The fusion color covers completely, so yes it will show through. The stone covers rather thinly, but there is some color to it. You do not try for 100% coverage with the stone. Only spray it on until you like the look. If you tried for 100% coverage with the stone, you would need many, many cans of it and would have to put it on extremely thick. I'm not sure how well the final product would hold up if you did this.
ReplyDeleteThis is SO inspiring you all! it's hard to see how I could make it work since we have to live and eat from this kitchen while it would be curing! has anyone done that!? hints...suggestions? what kind of protection while it cures do you think?
ReplyDeletethanks
Hi,
ReplyDeleteYour countertop makeover is one of the most natural-looking, DIY projects that I've seen on the web. I am going to use your idea of a base coat (in slate gray) and go with minimal coverage in a black textured spray to mimic stone. What was the name or type of the polyurethane (the brush-on you mentioned) you went with in the final stage? I am thinking it was oil-based, since the water-based shows white marks when wet. A lot of people are going with Envirotex Lite, but I don't want that thick and shiny of a coating.
If you have a minute, please advise me.
Thanks in advance,
Kat Osborne
Hello All!
ReplyDeleteI did this DIY project this past weekend and I am in LOVE with the results! Maureen, you are a genius!
I learned from the previous posts and used an oil based poly and it looks gorgeous. I used CABOT floor poly with a satin finish and applied with a premium 4" PURDY brush. It looks fabulous!
Love this. Could you tell me the colors you used?
ReplyDeleteI have started my counter with the hammered oil bronze. Love it so far but I am just not sure what color to use for the faux stone. Love the colors you have.
Thank you for the help and the idea.
I used the stone colored rust-oleum and the texture is dark in some spots should I get another can and try to even it out or can I sand it down?
ReplyDeleteI painted mine a couple years ago and for the most part they are holding up well. Three things to be aware of:
ReplyDeleteIf you accidentally drop anything heavy, they will chip. I dropped a ceramic cookie jar and now have a tiny chip. Understandable.
ANYTHING that has little rubber feet (i.e. crockpot, deep fryer, toaster) will leave a permanent little circle on the poly where the rubber sat.
I use the little felt stick on pads under my canisters, etc. to keep them from scratching the poly.
You will love them! They hold up really well considering the cost!